Almost done (with training)

(December 7): Since I last checked in, the end of homestay has come and gone. We've spent the past four weeks traveling around central Malawi: first, I spent four days exploring my future site in Salima, then Thanksgiving in Lilongwe, next to Mchinji district for a language intensive "week" (actually two days), a visit to Camp Sky (run by first year Education volunteers) in Lilongwe, and a few trips back to the training college in Dedza in between. I'm in Dedza again now, enjoying a weekend of relaxation with the other trainees after completing the last major training hurdle, the Chichewa language proficiency exam, on Friday.

We've been living out of suitcases for about ten weeks now, and tempers are running high. Thereís been the predictable frustration of operating within a bureaucratic organization (so much paperwork! so many evaluations and reviews!), and also the suffocating adolescent sensation of not being able to control one's own schedule and to come and go freely. Suffice it to say, my fellow compatriots are very eager to finish up with training this week, swear in on the 9th, and settle in at our sites in the following days.

Site Visit. So, my future site is in Salima, about 30 kilometers from Lake Malawi, just east of Lilongwe, if you feel like GoogleEarthing it. Itís a fairly urban area (by Malawian standards), with paved roads and access to food stores and electricity and running water and internet, all amenities most of the other volunteers do without in their villages. Since I had been getting excited about some kind of agricultural secondary project or a composting toilet venture, I have to admit I was a little disappointed to end up with a living situation so different than that experienced in most of the country. My sister, with perhaps justifiable incredulity, has pointed out I am ridiculous to complain about having a flush toilet and electricity, so I'll stop. I will be working with a cluster of 17 schools, some of which have the benefit of laboratories and libraries and computer labs, while others lack even electricity. So, there will certainly be a lot of potential opportunities to acquire or improve available resources. The best aspects of my site are the headmaster and deputy headmistress, both of whom are engaging, intelligent, and excited about working together. I should also mention, as a warning to future visitors: Salima is hot. So very hot. Hot, hot, hot. Always damp, pillow-soaking, hand-swelling, sweaty sweaty hot.

Thanksgiving. I hope yours was wonderful. We spent the holiday with the rest of the in-country volunteers at the ambassador's beautiful home in Lilongwe, gorging ourselves to the brink of illness on roasted pig, mashed potatoes, and an array of awesome dishes prepared by the volunteers. There were even beets! Six weeks in the village had left us ravenous and chocolate-crazed; the foreseeable results of two years of such living genuinely concern me.

Language Intensive. Our language group of seven stayed at Kayesa Inn, a quiet roadside retreat near the border with Zambia, for a few days, practicing Chichewa, interviewing the community, and finally delivering an HIV/AIDS presentation (in Chichewa) to the hotel staff on World AIDS day. Our audience not only was politely attentive as we probably butchered their language, but also they asked questions about the material that illuminated the scope of the myths spread about this disease. After my partner Jesi and I presented the ABC's of prevention (Abstinence, Be faithful, Condoms Correctly and Consistently), one woman asked if condoms were really safe. If left in the sun, she said, they get oily and grow maggots; wouldn't this also happen inside a woman who allowed her partner to use a condom? Other follow-up questions demonstrated similar misconceptions about the virus and prevention. I am really hoping to tackle these issues by teaching Life Skills at my school or in my community while I am in Malawi. Life Skills is an umbrella course that covers sexual health education, AIDS prevention, gender issues, and decision-making skills to achieve life goals.

Downtime. Despite the hectic traveling and studying schedule, it hasn't been all work and no play. During our time at the training college we've played a lot of ultimate frisbee and kickball, I've read a few books (I recommend The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind if you want to read about Malawi), biked around the local villages, played cards, watched movies, jogged, sipped a lot of orange Fanta and a little beer at the local, and even attempted to make butter toffee and brew mango hooch. Yesterday: an epic battle of Capture the Flag.

So life has been good. But of course I am missing all of you, especially as Christmas approaches and I think about all the things and people I love in Virginia. Missing cold mornings, bundling up, the fireplace at 906, hot cider, and all of those comfortable wintry things. Please do write and tell me about life... or call! (I don't want to post my digits on the internet but I will email them asap). International calls using Skype are super easy and cheap, so please do be in touch.

If you are so inclined to send a package, I would be delighted to receive these things (or any other things):

coffee (ground)
movies and music
oatmeal
reese's peanut butter cups
chocolate
anything delicious
good books or magazines
photos or stories about you

But most of all, I would just be happy to hear from you. Sending lots and lots of love from Africa,

Loo